Despite its past turmoil and political instability, travelers are returning to Guatemala because it offers Central America in concentrated form: its volcanoes are the highest and most active, its Mayan ruins the most impressive, its earthquakes the most devastating and its history decidedly intense.

Guatemala is the Mayan heart of Central America, though the government has touted and tortured the Maya - sticking their pictures on brochures and guns in their faces. However, indigenous culture survives in the ancient ruins of Tikal, rituals of Chichicastenango and blazing colors of Mayan dress.